How many types or flavours of mustard can you name? Personally I knew of two types: yellow and Dijon (unless you consider whole grain mustard as a different type, then I change my answer to three).
Thankfully, the folks at Maille Canada came to my rescue and opened my eyes to the wide variety of flavours and rich history of the Maille brand. Their story started in 1720 when distiller and vinegar maker, Antoine-Claude Maille, started “prescribing” his invention as a way to successfully ward off the plague. His son, based on his father’s success, went on to open their first mustard boutique in Paris and later became the official supplier to the court of Louis XV. And the rest, as they say, is history.
Fast forward to today, where Maille currently operates seven boutiques in four countries and employs the only three mustard sommeliers in the world. Harry Lalousis, Maille’s London based sommelier, paid a whirlwind visit to Toronto where he participated in the launch of Maille’s pop-up shop at Pusateri’s Fine Foods, and also was on hand at Toronto’s Bastille Day celebrations.
Harry Lalousis, one of only three Mustard sommeliers in the world
I had the opportunity to meet Harry at the Bastille Day celebrations and afterward sent him a list of questions that he was kind enough to spend some time answering for me.
Can you tell me a little bit about yourself?
I was born and raised in Brisbane, Australia, by Greek- Italian parents, so I have a very strong sense of what good, hearty food is. I was practically raised in a restaurant since I was born and I developed an interest in cooking from the age of 12. By the age of 15 I was running the family restaurant kitchen in a busy neighbourhood in Athens.
My family has a rich history as restaurateurs from my great grandfather, to my father, who opened a fish and chips shop in Aspley, which is close Brisbane, that everyone talks about to this day!
My father believed that good food is down to the quality of your products and I would do a pilgrimage to the food god if there was one with this in mind! I always remember him returning from trips to Europe with bags full of gourmet food, that’s back in the good old days when border control was behind a curtain and he could bring in Maille from Paris, chorizo from Spain and truffle oil from Alba.
I’ve heard of wine sommeliers and tea sommeliers, but never a mustard sommelier. How did you get this title?
Sommelier is an Ancient Gaelic word for “someone who holds the knowledge”, therefore as I have extensive knowledge of Mustard, from the different types of seed varieties all the way to making mustard and what types of mustards and brands exist around the world. On top of this I have extensive knowledge of food and cooking, being a past chef myself, and this enhances my knowledge on mustard pairing, I started using my title when we found a reference to a Mustard Sommelier in our boutiques being used since 1747.
What would you say to someone who says that the word ‘sommelier’ should only be reserved for someone associated with wine?
See above.
What kind of training did you receive in becoming a mustard sommelier?
You need to be well equipped in food knowledge, in food trends, in world cuisines and have cooking knowledge as a base, this is important in understanding the uses of mustard in cooking. Spend a total of 3 months in the year visiting the mustard plant farms, understand the cultivation and harvesting of the mustard seed, learn the different varieties of mustard plants and the types of seeds they produce in order to gain knowledge on the pungency levels. Then go through intense training on how the mustard is made and again the different types of mustards not only in Dijon but around the world. After all that comes the making of your own mustards and an endless voyage of exploring the possibilities of using mustard in cooking, my partner is my valuable Guinea pig.
What is the one food that you’ve had trouble pairing with mustard?
All to start with except steak and hot dog and then once you try them in many different foods nothing seems to NOT pair with mustard, even desserts! I think the only thing I might not be able to pair mustard with is Nutella!
How many flavours of mustards does Maille currently offer?
In most countries we offer at least 6 different flavours in our supermarket range. In our Gourmet range we have over 43, including our fresh served mustard from the tap. But even this grows every year as we do an annual collection with 3 limited flavours.
What is your favorite flavoured mustard and why?
I think the Honey and Balsamic di Modena mustard as I can pair it with not almost, but everything!
How many opened bottles of mustard are in your kitchen right now?
Just checked my fridge and I’ve attached a pic for clarification, obviously with my return from the wonderful Canada there is an added 8 at the moment and I must say I am pretty impressed with the variety! Also not happy as I did this and even shocked myself at how many I have currently!
All the mustards currently in Harry’s fridge.
What is the best part of your job?
Introducing people to the world of Mustard and seeing them pleasantly surprised at the endless possibilities of cooking and food pairing with it, I enjoy talking about cooking and food all the time!
Since you’re in Toronto introducing us to the mustard boutique, can we assume that we’ll be getting one soon?
I am not sure of that as nothing is in the plans yet, but you definitely deserve one.
What does the future hold for Harry Lalousis?
Mustard, mustard and more mustard! I aspire to continue introducing people to the world of mustard around the world, I also aspire to train more mustard Sommeliers in order to keep the tradition strong and eventually create a course for it.
** The following photos were taken at the Bastille Day celebrations in Toronto that was sponsored by Maille Casnada **/
